In February 2001, the Taliban invoked a prohibition against the depiction of living things, and ransacked the museum. In addition to the since-then refurbished Museum in Kabul, Supreme Commander Mullah Mohammed Omar issued the destruction of museums in Ghazni, Herat, and at Farm Hadda near Jalalabad. For Chubai Mustamandy, who uncovered many of the destroyed statues, the destruction would have been devastating. His prized excavation, the colossal Buddhist statues of Bamiyan, were soon to be destroyed. By March 12, the Bamiyan statues were shelled to oblivion on camera to the entire world.

Chatsworth, California

I met up with Huvishka, son of the archaeologist who was responsible for the excavation of some of Afghanistan's greatest sites, including the Buddhist statues of Bamiyan. We met over rice and chutney before his departure to Kabul. Huvishka Mustamandy is not only legacy to Afghanistan's most renowned archaeologist, but to his mother, Mehria Rafiq Mustamandy, one of the first to seek to save what her husband had brought to the world. Mehria Rafiq established 'ICSCHA' along with David Kamansky, a curator in Los Angeles. They developed the first coalition in the war of the antiquities.

"I am going back to my country to see how things have changed. I miss it, and I haven't been there for twenty-three years. It's still not the most safe place in the world. Going from Pakistan into Kabul by road means a lot of warlords and bandits."

"What will it take to begin the recollection process?" I asked.

"I don't know how willing the museums across the world are to give this stuff up. For example, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York has some of the artifacts. In fact, they actually wrote to my mother and said that they have the artifacts. They said that once Afghanistan is free, they will give them back to the country."

"So will they?" I asked.

"We (The Pacific Asian Museum and 'ICSCHA') tried to get in touch with them just a few months ago, but they said that in fact they didn't have the artifacts. But I have the letter to prove that they admitted they have them. A lot of these museums are just unwilling to give up these artifacts. You know they are very expensive and valuable."

"What is the biggest symbol of Afghanistan," I asked, "like the Eiffel Tower or the Statue of Liberty?"

"Oh, the Buddhist statues of Bamiyan," Huvishka said, "definitely the statues."

 

About the Site About Notes from the Road The Notes from the Road story, about Erik Gauger, his equipment and approach. Best Travel Sites A list of travel websites, science websites, outdoor websites, adventure websites, art and photography websites that have maintained an independent and unique spirit. Reviews Reviews, press clippings, criticism and more of Notes from the Road. Lost Sons of Afghanistan The first of two articles I wrote in the San Fernando Valley in 2001. A Museum for Kabul The follow-up to A Museum for Kabul. Bird List A collection of birds I have identified while on the road. I always keep an eye out for new birds and this is one of the greatest pleasures of travel. Count: 812 Fish List A collection of fish species I've counted in the wild over the course of my life. Count: 151 Mammal List A collection of every mammal I have positively identified over the course of my life. Count: 78 Reptiles & Amphibians List A collection of reptiles and amphibians I have managed to identify positively. Count: 55 Butterflies List A collection of butterflies I have managed to identify. Count: 54 Seashore Creatures List Tidepooling and snorkeling is one of the greatest joys of independent travel. This is my collection of seashore creatures I have identified during my Notes from the Road years. Count: 67 Dragonflies & Damselflie List A list of all my dragonfly and damselfly identifications. Count: 6