This went on for a while as Isabella contacted more London based dealers. The reality was shocking - dealers were very sensitive about the inquiry. "Why do you want something from Hadda?" they would ask. Or, "Why are you specifically interested in Afghanistan, this is a very important question since it is a strange inquiry."

Photographs of antiquities were mailed to our office in Redondo Beach. Upon examination, the pieces that were labeled 'Gandharan' were in fact Afghan, and those said to be in 'the style of Hadda' in fact resembled closely the beautifully crafted Buddhist statues from Hadda's famous 'Fish Porch' One statue in particular nearly matched a photo of Mustamandy's excavated works which were brought to the Kabul Museum in the 1970s. To be sold for 3,500 pounds. Dealers can trick the public into making the whereabouts of an artifact fuzzy. But they can't trick an expert.

Zurich

If anybody is an expert, it is Paul Bucherer, the central figure in the reconstruction of the Buddhas and the museum. I phoned Bucherer at the Afghanistan Museum in Switzerland, where he presides as director. Mr. Bucherer was approached by nationalistic members of the Taliban as well as ousted President Rabbani in the mid-1990's (then of the United Front, or Northern Alliance). Both sides saw the threat of destruction, and requested that the Swiss Government, and specifically Bucherer, help create a temporary storehouse - an Afghan museum in Switzerland. Bucherer also recently went to Afghanistan to cover the remaining rubble of Bamiyan Buddhas under a United Nations mission.

"The Taliban realized that the al-Qaeda influence wanted the willful destruction of Afghanistan's heritage, so certain nationalists within the government wanted to save it before that influence became too strong."

About the Site About Notes from the Road The Notes from the Road story, about Erik Gauger, his equipment and approach. Best Travel Sites A list of travel websites, science websites, outdoor websites, adventure websites, art and photography websites that have maintained an independent and unique spirit. Reviews Reviews, press clippings, criticism and more of Notes from the Road. Lost Sons of Afghanistan The first of two articles I wrote in the San Fernando Valley in 2001. A Museum for Kabul The follow-up to A Museum for Kabul. Bird List A collection of birds I have identified while on the road. I always keep an eye out for new birds and this is one of the greatest pleasures of travel. Count: 812 Fish List A collection of fish species I've counted in the wild over the course of my life. Count: 151 Mammal List A collection of every mammal I have positively identified over the course of my life. Count: 78 Reptiles & Amphibians List A collection of reptiles and amphibians I have managed to identify positively. Count: 55 Butterflies List A collection of butterflies I have managed to identify. Count: 54 Seashore Creatures List Tidepooling and snorkeling is one of the greatest joys of independent travel. This is my collection of seashore creatures I have identified during my Notes from the Road years. Count: 67 Dragonflies & Damselflie List A list of all my dragonfly and damselfly identifications. Count: 6