"Have you met with Ahmed Shah Massoud (commander of the United Front)?" I asked.

"Oh yes, we have met several times. Massoud was one of the most generous financial donors to (the Afghan Museum in Switzerland). Also King Zahir Shah has been very helpful."

"Why you? Why are you trusted as the keeper of Afghan's heritage?"

"I have been working on Afghanistan research for thirty-five years. All sides trust me. This is because I am working without any financial or political goals."

"How do the Afghan's view the reconstruction of the statues?"

"The reconstruction is viewed as a political priority - a symbol to show that they have

	Afghanistan's Greek influence dates to Alexander's conquests.

completely gotten rid of the the Taliban and al-Qaeda influence - a bridge to show that there is a priority over religious or ethnic differences...you know there are no Buddhists in Afghanistan today; it is a symbol of complete tolerance."

"What's more important, the Bamiyan buddhas or the looted artifacts?" I asked.

Bucherer laughed, "this is like bread and water. Which would you rather have? You cannot have one and not the other."

Pasadena, California

I phoned David Kamansky, Director General of the Pacific Asia Museum and founding member of 'ICSCHA'. "I have heard stories about your run-in with the Begram ivories?" I said.

"Yes, I was in a fine arts dealer shop in London. It was a shop of Asian art. This man walked in while I was standing there, saying that he had something to offer the dealer, and wondered if I would like to take a look at it. It was immediately recognizable as fragments of the Begram ivories, a masterpiece; the Mona Lisa of archaeology. These fragments were wrapped in tissue paper. Tissue paper!"

"He was asking two hundred thousand dollars. My first thought was to save the money and buy it. The Mustamandy's were trying to raise the money from King Zahir Shah, but he was focused on putting the funds towards the people, which was the priority at the time."

I asked, "but why does it seem that everybody has to commit to buying the pieces back? What about prosecution?"

"If our government called this cultural terrorism, the looting and stealing could be seized in the United States."

About the Site About Notes from the Road The Notes from the Road story, about Erik Gauger, his equipment and approach. Best Travel Sites A list of travel websites, science websites, outdoor websites, adventure websites, art and photography websites that have maintained an independent and unique spirit. Reviews Reviews, press clippings, criticism and more of Notes from the Road. Lost Sons of Afghanistan The first of two articles I wrote in the San Fernando Valley in 2001. A Museum for Kabul The follow-up to A Museum for Kabul. Bird List A collection of birds I have identified while on the road. I always keep an eye out for new birds and this is one of the greatest pleasures of travel. Count: 812 Fish List A collection of fish species I've counted in the wild over the course of my life. Count: 151 Mammal List A collection of every mammal I have positively identified over the course of my life. Count: 78 Reptiles & Amphibians List A collection of reptiles and amphibians I have managed to identify positively. Count: 55 Butterflies List A collection of butterflies I have managed to identify. Count: 54 Seashore Creatures List Tidepooling and snorkeling is one of the greatest joys of independent travel. This is my collection of seashore creatures I have identified during my Notes from the Road years. Count: 67 Dragonflies & Damselflie List A list of all my dragonfly and damselfly identifications. Count: 6