He says, “I love this guy, Rambo! He’s in the trees, he’s in the air, he’s on the rocks. And these China people can smell him, you know? They can smell that he’s there….” Mohammed extinguishes his cigarette and yells, “but he…rat-a-tat-a-tat and…he gets ‘em!”

In the evening, Mohammed wishes us well and we retreat to the El Minzah Hotel wine bar, which plays a mix of Frank Sinatra singing Antonio Carlos Jobim standards, the Buena Vista Social Club, Nina Simone and Cesaria Evora. Above our table is an autographed photo of Jacques Cousteau, sitting so many years ago at our table.

Tonight will be a raucous affair in Tangier. Dogs will howl and Muslims will bark, all until four in the morning when perhaps we’ll finally sleep. Tomorrow, St. Deuberex Montclair’s grave will shake in anticipation, as we ferry across the Strait of Gibraltar.