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Dispatch from Evora, Portugal
Text, photographs and web design by Erik Gauger
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Nothing in all of Iberia compares to the road that connects Covilhã to Evora, especially with one hand on the wheel and the other on a cheese that took us forty eight hours just to find. A hotel man had warned us not to take this road, because of its length. “It’ll take you all day,” he says. “Better to take the coast.” But we are in no hurry.
The benefits of this road are exquisite: it approximates a savannah: dry and monotone golden-brown. Cork oaks and granite stand widely spaced.
This Alentejo region is Portugal's hottest. Weather which tops out at over a hundred and ten degrees in the summer season help to keep this third of Portugal thinly populated.
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 Olive groves, Portugal |
Madrid to Cuenca
"..and I sensed that he too, could 'pick up the dirt and smell it' at least if it was a good Spanish vineyard dirt."
Lisbon's Alfama
It is colored in a smudgy gray, festooned with pinks and canaries and aquas and limes.
Tangier, Morocco
Travels with an Imaginary Fromagier: On day One of Ramadan, we seek out handmade Berber cheese in Tangier.
Britains Gibraltar
Travels with an Imaginary Fromagier: Reflect on the monkeys of Gibraltar, culture and cheese.
Andalucia
Travels with an Imaginary Fromagier: Notes regarding our quest to find the best artisanal cheeses in Southern Spain.
Extremadura
Travels with an Imaginary Fromagier: Wandering in Spain's most unvisited region.
The Beiras
Travels with an Imaginary Fromagier: "...Many of the shepherd huts are made of stone and thatch. Our goal is the small settlement the boys mentioned..."
The Alentejo
Travels with an Imaginary Fromagier: "...Weather which tops out at over a hundred and ten degrees in the summer season help to keep this third of Portugal thinly populated."
The Lisbon Coast
Travels with an Imaginary Fromagier: Setubal is a mazelike city, even more gnarled and twisty than Evora. It hugs the coast of the Setubal Peninsula, facing south.
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