Portuguese author Jose Saramago calls the Alfama a 'mythological beast' and continues to explain that he, nor anyone else can exactly know what it is. For what it's worth, the Alfama is a labyrinth of dark, wet alleys. Of old richly embellished tiles that facade entire exteriors. It is most of all a labryinth of Lisbon's history, set upon a glimpse of urban Lisbon lifestyles. For the Alfama is residential, with few specific tourist stops.

We walk slowly. The doors of apartments feature old bronzework of dragons and beasts. Scratched paint shows dozens of layers beneath each wall. For people who like history without walking through old churches and museums, the Alfama is a mood piece of a hundred eras. A glimpse of the faded majesty of the Portuguese Empire.