In the morning, I walk down a very old street in an old part of town. The apartments are small, and as far as I can tell, could each be at least five hundred years old.
When we find an authentic Azeitão, we timidly taste our last cheese. The cheese Montclair noted as 'distinctly Portuguese.' Azeitão is a raw sheep's milk cheese produced in the coastal hills beyond the monastery. It is an excellent piquant soft cheese. But also two weeks of eating heavy foods on the road have taken a toll. Jane dreams of crisp American lettuce, grilled chicken, that sort of thing. Cheese is healthy only in small quantities. The Portuguese eat it every day, but not as part of a dish. The Portuguese eat their cheese almost strictly as a single unit.