Notes from the Road Travelogue
Narrow dusk alley in Rovinj, Croatia—warm stone walls, glowing windows and lantern light, polished cobbles tapering toward the sea—an invitation to wander and discover Europe.

EXPLORE EUROPA

Named for a Phoenician princess abducted by Zeus and carried to Crete, Europa came to mean the Mediterranean world and the continent beyond it. Follow me through Europe's past and future, its wild places, its challenges, its enchanting cuisines and cultures.

Palermo and the Citrus Kingdom

Palermo and the Citrus Kingdom

How a strange fruit from the far end of the world made Palermo the capital of a citrus kingdom. Part I of The Citrus Kingdom.
Cefalù and the Sour Orange

Cefalù and the Sour Orange

An amaro at dusk, a forgotten rootstock, and the bitter orange that quietly held up Sicily's citrus kingdom. Part II of The Citrus Kingdom.
Lipari and the Colonel's Lemon

Lipari and the Colonel's Lemon

A strange lemon leads from an island garden to the making of Italy. Part III of The Citrus Kingdom.
Taormina and the Volcano Oranges

Taormina and the Volcano Oranges

Lizards, Portuguese ships and blood oranges meet beneath Mount Etna. Part IV of The Citrus Kingdom.
Ghar Lapsi on Malta

The Ġbejna Journals in Gozo

In M'dina and the fields of Gozo, ġbejna ends its 8,000-year journey through Maltese history.
Ghar Lapsi on Malta

The Ġbejna Journals in Malta

From Neolithic seafarers to modern refugees, the hidden history of Malta is written in cheese.
Venetian Adriatic

Liquid Architecture
in the Venetian Adriatic

In Venice, Istrian Croatia and Slovenia, I imagine the challenge of building cities as elegant as those of the Venetian Empire in tomorrow's world.
Paros, Cyclades

Ancient Improvisation
in Paros

On the Greek Island of Paros, I explore whether a musical improvisation master could have built up a following in the ancient Mediterranean.
Látrabjarg Cliffs

Puffin Rally to the
Látrabjarg Cliffs

On a road trip to Iceland's remote Westfjords, I explore the decline of the iconic Atlantic Puffin.
Cadaques, Spain

The Sea Cats of
Cap de Creus

In a road trip to Spain's Mediterranean coast, I ponder the value of itinerary-free travel.
Sicily, Italy

The Bright Road
to Zingaro

Exploring Sicily's Tyrhennian Sea coast, with notes on the effect of climate and migration.
Cuenca, Spain

Madrid to
Cuenca

Midnight tapas in Madrid, the plains of La Mancha and ancient alleys in Cuenca.
Alfama District, Portugal

Faded Majesty of
Lisbon's Alfama

The Alfama district of Lisbon hints at the global influence of colonial Portugal.
Pomerania

Pomerania and a Pomeranian Feast

Celebrating a family feast in the strange, modern setting of Pomerania, land of my ancestors.
Andalucia, Spain

Andalucia and the
Mission in the Sun

Exploring small towns of Iberia, where some of Europe's most fabled cheeses were born.
Bavaria, Germany

Bavaria and the
Constellation Gallia

Exploring the Bavarian and Swiss alps in search of the region's famous handmade cheeses.
Hamburg Sketches

Hamburg
Sketch Journal

Sketches, illustrations and notes on improvisation and worldbuilding in the Germany's second largest city.
Paris Sketches

Paris
Sketch Journal

Notes, drawings, sketches and illustrations in different mediums from Paris.
Sicily Sketchbook

Sketches
from Sicily

Drawings, notes and Moleskine journal sketches from my travels on the island of Sicily.
Venice Sketches

Venice & the Adriatic Sketch Journal

My sketches and illustrations of Venice and the Venetian cities of the Adriatic include notes and sketches from Venice, Croatia and Slovenia.
Barcelona Sketches

Barcelona
Sketch Journal

Drawings, sketches, Moleskine journal notes and illustrations from Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain.