Part IV: Great Guana Cay three
years after the fight began

Jenkins drops me off near the Nippers bar.  I have a few hours to kill, and I want to soak in as much about Great Guana Cay's settlement as possible.  I’ll be writing about this place for the next several years.  I decide to explore Guana with my binoculars on foot.  The late afternoon sun shines sweetly on the old loyalist homes, tempered by the shadows cast by tree leaves. 

I start walking downhill from Nippers, cross a few streets, then walk uphill again.  I see an off-road golf cart coming down the hill.  It is occupied by two very large men, so large they make the cart look like a rickety thing from the Flintstones.  The driver is smoking a large cigar.  He is drunk.  He says, “You going that way?” pointing to the direction I am going.  I tell him I am.  He says, “you gonna have a lot of trouble getting up that hill.”  I say I didn’t think it would cause me any trouble.  He laughs at this and starts saying all sorts of drunk things I can’t understand.    

And, this is always a great way to get rid of drunks: I walk up to him and give my high-five hand.  I say, “yeah!”  And then I slap his hand.  I say, “rock on, man!” really loud.

He belts out a sort of woohoo, and then kicks his golf cart back in motion, which causes the fat passenger to lurch forward.  I turn around and realize that I’m looking at a Baker’s Bay Club golf cart.

I go down to the harbor, and walk out into it at low tide and watch a little blue heron wading.  Little blue herons are brighter, sleeker animals than their great blue relatives, and the way they run along the shallows after a fish can be dazzling.