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We drove down Grand Avenue on Bunker Hill in downtown Los Angeles. Just a week before, it was reported that a new fault line crossed directly below. I suspect this news to have little impact on the city.

We drove under a movie set; the same sterile gray and silver stretch filmed in the movie Heat. We left for LaVerne. People here wear plaid; and at the lunchtable across from us, a group of fortysomethings talked art and science. A sign that we are no longer in L.A. In a few hours, we were in the Mojave; Joshua Tree National Park.

We played Vivaldi's "The Four Seasons." Perhaps this was innapropriate. There are no seasons here. In fact, nothing seems to ever change in Joshua Tree. Everything here has the feeling of a lost relic from the prehistoric. Granite monoliths piled awkwardly, every plant gnarled or brown. In the case of the Mojave Yucca, or its cousin, the Joshua Tree, perennially green, but twisted and contorted and cartoonish. Dr. Suess has gone mad.

But the feeling that nothing has changed here is hardly true. Thousands of years before, people crossed from Mongolia into Alaska and settled here as the Pinto, collecting pinyon nuts along a gently flowing desert river. Before that, elephants crossed this range and reportedly swam the Pacific to Asia. Mammoths died among these rocks, and before that, dinosaurs and lizards ate along the Colorado River which at that time flowed nearby.

 
 

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Desert Southwest

Mud Road to Coyote Buttes
Science fiction, flight of the raven, and dangerous roads.

Reefs of Pollen on the Carrizo Plain
Walking Southern California's protected grasslands.


Mesa to Canyon along the Colorado Plateau
First time rambling in the Southwest.

Saltwater Fish of Death Valley
A look at the big controversy about the small fish.

Wandering the Eastern Mojave
Notes on the Mojave National Preserve in Southern California.

Organpipe Cactus and the Goatsuckers of the Troposphere
Near Southwest Arizona's Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, a strange sighting in the sky stirs the subject of the atmosphere.

Gray River in the Sun

Driving and paddling the Los Angeles River, with a look at the heart of the city.

Death and Salvation on the New River

The Salton Sea, the New River, an environmental catastrophe, and the people who live there.

Panamint Valley Roach Motel

Everybody has stayed at a really bad motel. Want to hear about my experience?

Atomic Agriculture on the Rio Grande

Contemplate chili peppers and the white sands of southern New Mexico.

Bombay Beach and the Salton Sea

Kayaking, and trying to make sense of, the Salton Sea.

Trona and the Unusual Lake Searles

Traveling desert roads, meeting desert locals.

Barren Borrego
Southern California Desert

Four Seasons of the Mojave

Along Geology Tour and Lost Horse Mining Trail and up to Keyes View...

Captions from the Los Angeles Coast
Images and captions from the LA coast.

Skateboarding Las Vegas
Observations from traveling Las Vegas by skateboard.

Notes on the Channel Islands
Windblown zoology off the coast of Los Angeles

High Desert
Stories from California's High Desert Areas


 


 
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