Cuero y Salado

I am on the coconut train to La Union.  I share the second train car with Germán, my wilderness guide from the Pico Bonito Lodge.

In the daytime, you can see how this old track passes over marshes on rotting bridges and through fields of palms and oxen.  You can see an abundance of blue blossoms between the palms. 

Tonight is a blue night; overcast, drizzly, and that light is going fast and now it’s only the light of fireflies.  A million fireflies.  The contours of meadow and forest edge are like an upside-down night sky. The coconut train is all metal – tottering old metal painted yellow and red, and it makes quite a noise.  The kind of noise that makes people say, "I can't even think!"

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