A surfer stands with a longboard on wet sand at sunset on the Pacific coast, sea stacks on the horizon and the orange sky mirrored in the rippled beach.

Field Notes from the Pacific Northwest

Explore Cascadia

A thin band of emerald forests and fjords stretches from northern California to Alaska, punctuated by Portland, Seattle, and Vancouver's distinctive Cascadian culture. As my adopted home, I explore its far-flung fringes.

Line map of the Pacific coast from northern California to southern Alaska, fading out inland: the Oregon and Washington coast, Puget Sound, Vancouver Island, Haida Gwaii and the fjords of southeast Alaska, with Portland, Seattle, Vancouver, Juneau and Anchorage marked.

What Is Cascadia?

Where the Rain Draws the Border

Cascadia is easier to feel than to draw. There is no line where it starts or stops, only a thickening of rain, moss and big conifers along the Pacific, from the redwoods of northern California to the fjords of southeast Alaska. Mountains hem it in to the east: the Klamaths, the Cascades and the Coast Mountains. Rivers carry it inland: the Columbia, the Fraser and the Skeena. Geologists named the region for its mountains, and the Seattle sociologist David McCloskey later borrowed the name for a bioregion he called “a land of falling waters.”

  • 380 ftHyperion, a coast redwood and the tallest known tree
  • 1,243 mithe Columbia, from the Canadian Rockies to the Pacific
  • 1700the last great Cascadia earthquake, about magnitude 9
  • 40–60°Nthe span of the Pacific temperate rainforest

From the Far North to the Redwoods

My stories, from north to south, the way the map reads.

  1. Beyond the EdgesTundra and prairieWhere the rain gives out: Alaska’s Seward Peninsula to the far north, and the grasslands east of the mountains.
  2. The Wild North CoastVancouver Island and the Olympic PeninsulaRainforest and surf on the open Pacific, from the Makah lands at Neah Bay to Clayoquot Sound.
  3. The CascadesVolcanoes and wildernessThe volcanic spine of the region, from the Goat Rocks and the Dark Divide in Washington to Mount Jefferson in Oregon.
  4. The Columbia and Its ValleysRivers and townsPortland, the Columbia and the valleys around them, from the Hood River Valley to the Coast Range.
  5. The Southern Coast and the DeepOregon coast to the redwoodsDunes and headlands, the open ocean past the continental shelf, and the redwoods of northern California.