Notes from the Road Travelogue
Narrow dusk alley in Rovinj, Croatia—warm stone walls, glowing windows and lantern light, polished cobbles tapering toward the sea—an invitation to wander and discover Europe.

EXPLORE CASCADIA

A thin band of emerald forests, rivers, and islands stretches from northern California to Alaska's coastal fjords. Portland, Seattle, and Vancouver punctuate the green with a distinctive Cascadian culture—a blend of green economy, tolerance, and love for the wild and the local. As my adopted home, I explore Cascadia by seeking out its far-flung fringes.

Cispus Basin in the Goat Rocks Wilderness

Who Belongs in the Cispus Basin?

On a backpacking trip to southwestern Washington's Goat Rock Wilderness, I wonder about traditional wilderness archetypes.
Dark Divide Roadless Area

Firelight in the Dark Divide

A backpacking trip to the solitary wilderness in southwestern Washington feeds my love of campfires.
Gifford-Pinchot Wilderness

My Rescue in the Gifford-Pinchot Wilderness

Late summer backpacking in a Southwest Washington national forest ends in my terrifying rescue. Includes an interview with rescuer Lauren Dawkins.
Redwood Coast

Rum-drinking Demons of the Redwood Coast

On a road trip to Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, I compare Oregonian and Californian views on public lands.
Sauvie Island Saucer

The Ark Saucer of Sauvie Island

On a quiet stretch of Columbia River beach, an unexpected ark sends us to discover the life of the maverick inventor who built it.
Shi Shi Beach Trail

Shi Shi Beach Trail

On a backpacking trip to the Olympic Peninsula's rugged Pacific coast, I explore four possible future scenarios for rural coastal areas.
Jefferson Park Wilderness

Jefferson Park Wilderness

Thoughts on rough roads, carefree trails and backcountry science in Oregon's Jefferson Park.
Bandon to Port Orford

Crossing the Sixes River

Hiking the Oregon Coast from Bandon to Port Orford: Snowy Plovers, hipsters and cops.
Clatsop County

Clatsop County Road Trip

On the Oregon coast, I write about my dearest subject: perpetual road travel.
Portland, Oregon: Bluegrass in Cascadia

Portland: Bluegrass in Cascadia

Notes on traveling to Portland, Oregon, laidback capital of Cascadia — before I moved there.
Pelagic bird trip

Xantu's Abyss

With a group of pelagic birders and a grumpy sea captain, I pursue a rare treasure.
Zumwalt Prairie

Thunder on the Zumwalt Prairie

Frozen rattlesnakes and wolf politics in the fabled setting of the Zumwalt Prairie.
Clayoquot Sound

Balancing Clayoquot Sound

Notes from Tofino, Vancouver Island on the stunning and isolated Clayoquot Sound.
Hood River Valley

Shades of the Hood River Valley

Color and camouflage in nature, from the Hood River Valley area of Oregon.
Neah Bay

The Artist and the Whale Hunter

An interview with a native artist on the whaling controversies and life in Neah Bay.
Umpqua Dunes

Umpqua Dunes Genesis

I travel to the Umpqua Dunes in pursuit of the answers of a mysterious stone tool.
Nehalem Valley

Foraging Nehalem Valley

Glowing Mushrooms, deer-meat, stone and a Portland underworld of old ways.
River Civilization

River Civilization

The Oregon Hotel is old, rickety and delightful, and in the geographic center of Oregon.
Beringia

Midnight Road to Beringia

Native migrations to the Americas, tundra, gyrfalcons and summertime on the Bering Sea.
Oregon Sketches

Oregon Sketch Journal

Field sketches and illustrations from my travels in the state of Oregon.
Perpetua Seabank

Birdwatching the Perpetua Sea Bank

Travels by boat with a group of birdwatchers in pursuit of rare pelagic birds.